off the menu
A new restaurant from a Bâtard and Augustine alumnus, Manhatta reopens, and more restaurant news.
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Jazz made Sugar Hill, in the heart of Harlem, sizzle in its heyday 100 or so years ago. Now, with Paul Schermerhorn, who has a background in fine dining, as a partner, Mark Miller, a musician, Sugar Hill resident and the owner of the neighborhood’s new jazz venue and barbecue joint, hopes to reheat the beat. The neighborhood can expect smokehouse favorites like baby back ribs, brisket, pork butt and barbecue chicken from the executive chef Matt Fisher, a former pitmaster at Fletcher’s Brooklyn Barbecue and the nearby Dinosaur Barbecue. At his side is Hassan Salim, the chef de cuisine, who is smoking local bluefish and cod. They are also introducing some Cajun dishes like shrimp beignets, roast beef po boy with debris, and peanut slaw. For now, there’s beer and wine, with cocktails to come. Live music, frequently from local performers, starts at 9 p.m. Thursdays through Sundays with a modest cover charge. The restaurant has an open kitchen, seating indoors and out, and décor enlivened with vintage finds.
750A St. Nicholas Avenue (148th Street), 646-895-9004, theporchnyc.com.
The compelling new replacement for the Breslin from the chef Markus Glocker shows off a setting that has been lightened and brightened, with Russell Sage Studio of London highlighting its many architectural details. Named for Koloman Moser, a major designer of the Wiener Werkstätte school in Mr. Glocker’s native Austria, it’s decorated with hand-painted and wallpaper patterns of the period. Thonet-style chairs line the bar at the entry and surround tables throughout the space’s many alcoves and dining areas. There’s an open kitchen, where Mr. Glocker, who worked at Bâtard and Augustine, turns out inventive food that can be called French in dishes like duck liver parfait and roast chicken with Champagne cabbage. But the menu reveals Austrian roots with horseradish, mustard, lingonberries and pumpkin seed oil. On the dessert menu, from the pastry chef Emiko Chisholm, a peach Charlotte vies for attention with Sacher torte. The wine list, by Katja Scharnagl, who worked with Aldo Sohm at Le Bernardin, features mostly French and Austrian selections, with a deep list of Champagnes and sparkling wines. (Opens Thursday)
16 West 29th Street, 212-790-8970, kolomanrestaurant.com.
This aerie from Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group now has Justin Bogle, of Le Coucou and Gilt, as executive chef. His approach is creatively modern for dishes like grilled lobster with black garlic, turnips and Carolina gold rice. Handling the drinks from the stretch of bar with spectacular views is Cameron Winkelman, who controlled the shakers at Dante. (Friday)
28 Liberty Street (William Street), 212-230-5788, manhattarestaurant.com.
What the chef Eric Huang described as a nomadic restaurant, known for chile-fried chicken reflecting flavors of the South and of China and Taiwan, has roosted in Brooklyn. The chef Maya Ferrante started working with Mr. Huang in 2020, and now they’ve opened a restaurant with seating for 45. The menu includes salted egg yolk fried chicken, oyster mushroom po’ boy, dirty fried rice, and fries with roast chicken salt.
244 Flatbush Avenue (St. Marks Avenue), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 845-535-1425, peckinghouse.com.
Below street level, with an entrance from Grand Central Terminal, sits this concise Japanese restaurant in the One Vanderbilt skyscraper where Daniel Boulud has his grand, leafy restaurant Le Pavillon. Mr. Boulud is running it with Marc Holliday of SL Green, the building’s developer. It’s a luxury enclave with a 10-seat counter and a private room with just eight seats. Sushi omakase by the chef George Ruan, formerly of Masa, is the plat du jour for $375 per person at two seatings. (Wednesday)
One Vanderbilt Avenue (42nd Street), jojinyc.com.
Stretching the Thai repertoire with dishes like young jackfruit salad, five-spice crispy pig ears, relishes like tamarind chile paste, kaeng kua lobster with santol (wild mangosteen), and pork belly with herbs and vegetables is this elaborate restaurant from the chef Ohm Suansilphong and his wife, the chef Kiki Supap. Many of the dishes are inspired by royal Thai cooking and are served in a setting decorated with herbs and spices. (Saturday)
190 North 14th Street (Wythe Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, krubrooklyn.com.
The Tiffany of seafood shacks with a tasting menu (nine courses) for $125 plus a $25 service fee has opened near the Brooklyn waterfront. John Coppola, the owner, who is from Brooklyn and worked in Montauk, and the Connecticut native Chris Cote, the executive chef, describe the approach as modern New England with a menu that features seafood like scallops, bluefish, monkfish and oysters and dishes like black radish with charred squid, begonia leaf, bayberry leaf; oysters with tomato, lemon verbena and dulse; and bluefish with fermented asparagus and buttermilk whey. The counter-only restaurant has seats that face a kitchen equipped with steam and induction, no gas or grills. There are two seatings daily, Wednesdays through Saturdays. A wine and beer license is in the wings.
147 Front Street (Jay Street), Dumbo, Brooklyn, pearlstreetsupperclub.com.
Madame Vo’s new partner, a short distance away, is the replacement for Madame Vo BBQ, which closed during the pandemic. The room has been redone, and the menu by Jimmy Ly, in partnership with Yen Vo, features a deconstructed banh mi board, tamarind-glazed bone marrow, dry pho with chicken, a copious skewer platter and lemongrass fish.
104 Second Avenue (East Sixth Street), 917-675-7068, madamevo.com.
A spacious bar and restaurant with an outdoor patio and curving booths is the setting for cocktails barrel-aged according to the solera method (think sherry casks), a specialty of the head bartender Erin Gabrielle. The food by Hakki Gökçe includes truffled steak tartare and 48-hour short ribs with fried polenta. From 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, except Mondays, the space houses the flagship of Patisserie Chanson, on West 23rd Street from the same owners.
355 Greenwich Street (Harrison Street), 646-930-2272, lesalon-cocktailbar.com.
The original location of this string of restaurants from Danny Abrams and Cindy Smith has reopened after a pandemic hiccup.
96 Second Avenue (Fifth Street) 212-201-7418, themermaidnyc.com.
After only a year, this chicken spot in Harlem is opening a sibling in Kips Bay for rotisserie and fried birds, sandwiches and other items, including a lobster roll.
415 Third Avenue (29th Street), 347-332-6866, nychickinn.com.
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